From Arzua to O Pedrouzo, Camino Frances Stage no. 29

Basic Information

• Starting Point: Arzúa, Spain (400m) – The cheese capital of the Camino, famous for its creamy Tetilla. One of the most busy spots on the entire camino (by now, both the Northern way and the Primitivo way have merged with the French way), with 15 pilgrim albergues and many other accommodation options for every budget. Plenty of restaurants, bars, and basically all services for pilgrims.
• Ending Point: O Pedrouzo (Arca), Spain (295m) – For most pilgrims the final stop before Santiago, buzzing with anticipation, emotions, and also with money that pilgrims spend there every day :). Ten pilgrim albergues and plenty of other accommodation options. With only 900 inhabitants, the town lives mostly from the pilgrims (on many days there are more pilgrims staying in town than there are inhabitants), and you can count with all services and plenty of restaurants.
• Availability of an alternative route: Not really, you have to follow the crowds today.
• Distance: 20 km (download GPS here).
• Online Map: map.
• Elevation Difference: +400 m ascent, -505m descent.
• Difficulty Score: 2/5. One of the easiest stages, but emotions run high, and so may the heartbeat :).
• Beauty Score: 2/5. Not spectacular, but some short stretches are really nice. If you’re doing just the last 100 kilometers (from Sarria), than the score can easily be 3/5.
• Terrain/Asphalt Ratio: 75% trails, 25% asphalt, on the road, or right next to the road.
• Next stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 30, O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela.
• Previous stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 28, Palas de Rei – Arzua.

Elevation profile for the route

– Definitely less dramatic than yesterday, bu we still have some short sections with climb gradient surpassing 10%, today mostly on descents. But most of the stage consists in flat ground or moderate climbs/descents.

Advanced Info About the Stage

• Trail Marking: The granite markers, showing the exact distance remaining to Santiago, get ever more frequent. On some sections every 200 meters. It apparently is annoying for some pilgrims, since from many of these granite markers parts are stolen or destroyed (such as the scallop shell or the number of meters left until Santiago). But anyway, with the hordes of pilgrims accompanying you on this very last stretch, there is 0% chance of getting lost. On the top of that, it is often fenced ‘private property’ on both right and left of the camino path. Hard to make a wrong turn with such a setup :).
• Natural Highlights: Nothing worth a special mention. However, in the second half of the stage you’ll pass through some dense eucalyptus forests and some nice tree tunnels. There are also a couple of nice river-crossings right after Arzua, at the beginning of the stage.
• Historical & Cultural Highlights:
  • The wall of wisdom: An interesting set of philosophical messages, in English and Spanish language, run by a philosopher and writer Bruno Lernout, who lives in the town of Arzua. An ideal place to stop, read the messages, and reflect on your Camino and what it has taught you. The messages are changed every two years. There is a good bar and an excellent albergue right next to the wall of wisdom as well.
  • Monument of the Swill pilgrim Guilermo Watt: In August 1993, a devoted religious pilgrim from Switzerland called Guillermo died on this very same spot, suffering a heart attack. Just a day before reaching the Cathedral in Santiago, his coveted goal… It is well-maintained spot in the memory of this pilgrim, and also a good reminder for us that nothing is granted in life, regardless of how well we may feel on our way to Santiago. Location on Google maps here.
  • Santa Irene Chapel: Beautiful 17th century chapel, now privately owned by the couple who lives in the house opposite to it. They can open it for you if you see them in the garden. There is a nice water fountain and some shaded spots nearby. Ideal for a rest and a little prayer perhaps… Right on the camino, location on Google maps here.
  • The town center of O Pedrouzo: While there are nicer towns on the French way, in a good weather the old town of O Pedrouzo makes for a nice afternoon stroll. But there isn’t really any special spot in town I would recommend visiting in the afternoon.
• Camping/Bivouac Options: There is one organized camping place on this stage, close to El Perdouzo, called Kampaoh O Pedrouzo. Though it isn’t a typical camping where you can pitch your tent (though in theory it can be arranged with the staff), it can serve you in case you want to avoid cramped albergues, or simply prefer to ‘camp’. Here the tents are already built, they have comfortable beds inside, electricity, and everything. Bathrooms are shared though. Location and reviews on Google maps here. Please note that if you camp to save money, this isn’t your spot, since you’ll pay more than you would in any albergue, and in most pensions :). Anyway, it is dog-friendly, and have good reviews all around. This new concepts of camping called “glamping” is spreading all over Spain (and Europe), and sadly in a few years it may completely replace the traditional forms of camping as we have known and enjoyed them for decades… Anyway, when it comes to wild camping, there aren’t really any good spots on this stage. All private property and farmland. Your only chance would be spotting some local in his field/garden and asking directly whether you could pitch a tent on their garden for a night. Just make sure to not do so without asking…
• Dog-Friendly Score: 4/5. The terrain is quite pleasant for dogs, although some trails, being trodden by so many pilgrims week after week, are almost as hard as concrete. But there is enough shade and water on the stage, and no reports of loose dogs :). When it comes to accommodation, I recommend the following dog-friendly places in O Pedrouzo: A pilgrim place Albergue Otero, and a quiet pension a bit out of town (good to escape the crowds) called Santaia Casal de Calma. Both places are decent and accept dogs, but make sure to call in advance so they can prepare the space for you.
• Special Remarks: Whether you walked hundreds of kilometers until this point, or started just a few days ago from Sarria, this is likely your last night before reaching Santiago. Regardless of whether you walk for religious reasons or make Camino just like a walking holiday, perhaps the evening in O Pedrouzo is a good time to reflect a bit on your journey. What you have learned, what conclusions you came to, and whether your pilgrimage has changed you somehow. Camino de Santiago is a life-changing experience for many (no doubt it was one for me), and I sincerely hope the way has left its mark on you…

My picks for accommodation for the stage

1. Albergue Taberna-Vella, As Quintas (km 5). Location and reviews on Google maps here. A beautiful albergue in a natural location, a chance to escape the crowds and “the last 100km buzz” for an afternoon and one night at least. A great host, homemade dinner, and great reviews on all pilgrim platforms. Highly recommended. Check-in from 2pm, recommended way of making a reservation: phone call, +34 687 543 810.
2. Albergue Edreira, O Pedrouzo (km 20). Location and reviews on Google maps here. 13-14 euro/night, 32 beds. Probably the best albergue in O Pedrouzo. Anyway spotlessly clean, with nice hosts, pretty good reviews on various pilgrim platforms, and a quiet location. Check-in from noon, recommended way of making a reservation: phone call, +34 660 234 995, +34 981 511 365.
3. Albergue Mirador de Pedrouzo (km 20). Location and reviews on Google maps here.  62 beds in 8 rooms, modern and clean installations, swimming pool, nice communal space outside of the house. 16 euro/night, great reviews across all pilgrim platforms. Recommended way of booking: Booking.com.

Pictures from the stage

– Passing on nice paths between private farmlands and forests, that’s the most common scene on today’s stage.

– Morning mists are always wonderful, the key is to wake up early and start before everyone else does.

– One more of the Galicia magic…

– One of many small villages you’ll pass by, in the distance. If Camino didn’t pass through these places, some of them would be almost abandoned by now…

Few tips at the end

• The main pilgrim mass in Santiago starts at noon every day. That’s something you should consider when planning your last day. Keep in mind that they do not allow you to enter the church with the backpack–you need to leave it in a luggage deposit, and while there are some options near the cathedral, it still takes time to bring your backpack there. The message I try to convey here is that you should try to arrive in Santiago at around 11am, to have enough time to leave your backpack in the luggage deposit, and find a place in the cathedral. Considering it is still 19km, it is ideal to start from O Pedrouzo at around 7am. Having said that, it is also an option to start late, arrive to Santiago calmly, and simply enjoy the pilgrim mass on the next day after your arrival…

Next/Previous stage

• Next stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 30, O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela.
• Previous stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 28, Palas de Rei – Arzua.