From Arcade to Caldas de Reis, Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 9

Basic Information

• Starting Point: Arcade, Spain – A pilgrim-friendly town famous for its oysters and its scenic riverside setting. With over 4,000 inhabitants, you’ll find all services in town, including 4 pilgrim albergues.
• Ending Point: Caldas de Reis, Spain – A historic spa town famous for its hot thermal springs, used since Roman times. With around 10,000 inhabitants, it offers all services for pilgrims, including 6 pilgrim albergues. The town’s leafy parks, stone bridges, and warm thermal waters make it an enjoyable stop on your camino…
• Availability of an alternative route: Not really.
• Map of the stage: map.
• Distance: 34 km (download GPS here).
• Elevation Difference: +295m, – 290m
• Difficulty Score: 4/5, mostly because of the distance you have to cover on the day.
• Beauty Score: 3/5.
• Terrain/Asphalt Walking Ratio: 45%/55%
• Next stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 10, Caldas de Reis – Padron.
• Previous stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 8, Vigo – Arcade.

Elevation profile for the route

– The profile for this stage is very readable and easy to remember. Basically you have 2 hills to overcome (or perhaps enjoy should you be bored from the flatness of this Camino Portuguese :)). First one starts at km 3.5, ends at km 5 and you climb about 120 vertical meters. The other one is longer but less steep. Starting from km 20 you climb roughly 100 vertical meters, the hill ending at roughly km 23. The rest of this stage (between the hills and after the second hill) is pretty flat.

Advanced info about the stage

• Natural Highlights: Today it’s definitely the waterfalls. But let’s start with something else:
  • Senda fluvial de Rio Gafos. Right on the camino, starts a few km before Pontevedra and then you follow it all the way into the city. Popular by locals with dogs, this is a nice river walk with some interesting fauna and flora and a few spots that will stay in your memory for a couple of hours at least… No need to make any detours or particularly look for it, you will simply pass by on your walk.
  • The nature reserve of Rio Barosa, with its waterfalls. 500 meters detour from the camino, exactly here, roughly km 24 of today’s walk. A beautiful location with various waterfalls, interesting stone structures, and peaceful nature. Great place to escape the camino crowds for a bit and enjoy this gem for a short break from walking…There are also lot of picnic tables, so would be great to have a lunch too (should you bring one with you:))
  • The zone of waterfall Fervenza de Segade, Caldas de Reis. Location on Google maps here. 2 km out of town, ideal for an afternoon walk without a backpack. There is also a circular route passing along the waterfall called “Ruta do Aqua” (“Way of water”), that’s 6 km long. Not sure if you manage that one after the whole day of walking, but perhaps it can be an interesting alternative for the next morning, before you continue on the camino…
• Historical & Cultural Highlights: If from natural standpoint waterfalls stand out on this stage, from historic & culture highlights we have to point out especially the beautiful bridges you will cross. But it’s not only the bridges…
  • The medieval bridge of Ponte Sampaio, right on the Camino, exact location here. Dates back to 12th–13th centuries, though it probably replaced an earlier Roman crossing at the same strategic point. In the Middle Ages it was a crucial crossing on the route connecting southern Galicia with Santiago, which is why it later became part of the Camino. The bridge is best known for the Battle of Ponte Sampaio. In June 1809, during the Peninsular War, Spanish and Galician forces fought the French army of Napoleon Bonaparte here. Local militia, Spanish soldiers, and volunteers defended the bridge against French troops trying to advance toward Pontevedra. And they were forced to retreat from southern Galicia. You can notice the memorial plaques and monuments near the bridge commemorating the victory.
  • The old town of Pontevedra, km 13 of today’s walk. Pontevedra is often cited as one of the most pedestrian-friendly cities in Europe. In the last decades the city removed most cars from the historic center, which helped preserve the old town’s atmosphere. Narrow streets, irregular squares, plenty of churches and buildings with hundreds of years of history. That’s why Pontevedra is not only an important town on the camino, but also a tourist hub. If it wasn’t so overcrowded in summer, I would recommend it even for an off day on the camino :).
  • Ponte de Burgo, Pontevedra, location on Google maps here, right on the camino. Another beautiful bridge, this time over the river Lerez, once you leave Pontevedra in the direction of Caldas de Reis.
  • The hot springs of Caldas de Reis. You can drink mineral water with 40+ degrees Celsius, soak your feet in thermal water, or even take a plunge in one of the thermal pools in town. See more about these options in “Few tips at the end” section, at the end of the page :).
• Camping/Bivouac Options on the Stage: There are no organized camping places along this stage. For wild camping in reasonable distance to Caldas de Reis, I recommend the zone of the waterfall Fervenza de Segade, somwehre around here. Of course, not right at the waterfall or the observation deck of it, but a little bit farther, near the rock formation or the old Roman bridge (flat terrain and trees). It is also a beautiful location to visit and simply be at… Roughly 2 km detour from the camino. 10 km before Caldas you’ll find another similar zone, in the nature reserve of Rio Barosa, exactly here. The only problem with this second one is that it’s super popular with locals in summer. Hence for camping I recommend it only in spring or autumn, outside of weekends.
• Dog-Friendly Score: 4/5, another fairly good stage for dogs. Plenty of trails and green spaces, including several sections along rivers where your companion can cool down. The only part that’s bad for dogs is crossing of Pontevedra, another big town, but that’s simply something one has to overcome, looking forward to better sections ahead. In terms of dog friendly accommodation in Caldas, I recommend the following guest house, or the following one. The first one is very affordable, the second one very beautiful :). As far as my knowledge and research goes, there are no pet friendly hostels (albergues) in Caldas.
• Special Remarks: From Pontevedra (km 13 of today’s walk), starts a deviation of Camino Portuguese, called Variante Espiritual. It takes you over one mountain and then to some small Galicean hamlets and back to the coast, before if reconnect with other Portuguese Caminos in Padron, the typical last sleeping place before Santiago. It is a well sign-posted camino (with yellow arrows), and some pilgrims take this alternative, especially if they want to prolong their walk by a few days, or when they already walked the Portuguese camino before. We do not have a guide for this way, since I do guides only for caminos that I personally walked. However, I mapped it for you here. Basically it prolongs your camino by 40 extra kilometers (typically 2 extra days), and it is also a way to escape the crowds a bit, since vast majority of pilgrims will follow the “official camino”. Based on what I’ve heard from pilgrims who walked this way, however, I wouldn’t say it is more beautiful than the official camino, or better. So no regrets if you decide to simply follow the typical way, skipping the variante espiritual for this time :).

My picks for accommodation on this stage

1. Hostel Charino, Pontevedra, km 13. Location and reviews on Google maps here. There are more than 10 hostels in Pontevedra. However, if I should pick the best one, it will be the Charino. It is one of the highest rated hostel on the entire Camino Portuguese, across various pilgrim and non-pilgrim platforms. Located in a quite corner of a historic center (that’s not easy to find in a place like Pontevedra), this hostel is very modern and spotlessly clean, with free washing machine for pilgrims, breakfast included, perfectly equipped kitchen, beautiful communal zone. If I wanted to find some minus about this place, I just wouldn’t be able to really :). 24 places in dorms, 25-25 euro/night (depends on the season), including great breakfast. Recommended way of making a reservation: Booking.com,exactly here.
2. Albergue de peregrinos de Briallos, Briallos, km 29. Location and reviews on Google maps here. A quiet oasis for unbeatable price, outside of main stopping points of this busy stretch of the Camino, this little-known gem is your chance to escape the crowds and find some peace, at least for one afternoon. 27 beds in 4 rooms, 10 euro/night. Big garden. Installations are a bit older but well maintained. Great cafe and bar (where you can have a dinner) right next to the albergue. Highly recommended. They do not accept reservations, check-in from 1pm.
3. Albergue Albor, Caldas de Reis, km 34. Location and reviews on Google maps here. While you won’t find a truly excellent pilgrim hostel in Caldas, this one is probably the best in town. 35 beds in 5 rooms, 22 euro/night, breakfast included. Beds with curtains for privacy, nice communal zone, but the place would need a bit of extra maintenance… Great central location and check-in already from 11am–ideal if you want to spend a bit more time in town and soak your feet in famous thermal waters :). Recommended way of making a reservation: Booking.com, exactly here. In some periods of the year they do not take reservations on Booking, then try sending a WhatsApp message to +34 600 351 157 or +34 604 020 213.
4. Estrella do Camino, Caldas de Reis, km 34. Location and reviews on Google maps here. The best option in town if you’re looking for a private room. Twin room started from 50 euro/night. Great location, lovely patio, homely feel, all installations in excellent conditions. Check-in from 2pm, recommended way of making a reservation: Booking.com, exactly here.

Pictures from the stage

– A beautiful medieval bridge over the Verdugo river, right after Arcade. And a nice bench dedicated to  pilgrims.

– Pontevedra. Many pilgrims stay here for the night, but having enough of big cities we will simply move on. – Another beautiful bridge, this time in Pontevedra.

– If you feel Santiago is too close now and you’d prefer spending more time on the way, you can always turn around and walk towards Fatima (an important pilgrimage place in Portugal). The way is marked with blue arrows and from Pontevedra it is about 350 km away.

– And here we go again, on the road, just like the vast majority of time on this camino. At least the street is nice.

Few tips at the end

• One thing you shouldn’t miss in Caldas de Reis are the natural hot springs. Dating back all the way to Roman times, plenty of medieval pilgrims stopped here for a couple of days before their final push to Santiago. There is actually one hot water spring directly on the camino, called Fonte termal das Burgas, exactly here. But that’s just a small spring where you can drink the mineral water as a part of water therapy, or soak your feet a bit in a lavadorio nearby, exactly here :). For real spa experience, you should go to one of the places that have pool with hot mineral water. Consult people at the reception of your albergue/hotel for best thermal pool to do, according to the season.

Next/Previous Stage

• Next stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 10, Caldas de Reis – Padron.
• Previous stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 7, Vigo – Arcade.