From Caldas de Reis to Padron, Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 10

Basic Information

• Starting Point: Caldas de Reis, Spain – A historic spa town famous for its hot thermal springs, used since Roman times (and available until today). It offers all services for pilgrims, including 6 pilgrim albergues. Can be extremely busy in summer, but still a nice town for one-night stay on your Camino Portuguese.
• Ending Point: Padron, Spain – A town deeply connected to the legend of Saint James, believed to be the place where his boat arrived after his martyrdom. With roughly 9,000 inhabitants, Padrón offers excellent services for pilgrims, including 7 pilgrim albergues, and plenty of other accommodation options. The town is also famous for its green peppers (“Pimientos de Padrón”), though these has changed a lot over the last 15 years (the spiciness is almost gone, I’ll talk about it more in “few tips at the end” section).
• Availability of an alternative route: YES. You can leave the official camino roughly at km 9, and join a way called Via Mariana. Alternative route is 6 km longer and it takes you out from the asphalt road, and also from the crowded stretch close to Santiago, that you will exchange for a bit of solitude in nice Galicean woods. Definitely recommended, especially in the high season.
• Maps:
  • Official camino route: map.
  • Alternative route: map.
• Distance:
  • Official camino route: 19.5 km (Download GPS here).
  • Alternative route: 26 km (Download GPS here).
• Elevation Difference:
  • Official camino route: +150m, – 170m
  • Alternative route: +430m, – 450m
• Difficulty Score:
  • Official camino: 2/5
  • Alternative route: 3/5
• Beauty Score: 
  • Official camino: 2/5
  • Alternative route: 3/5
• Terrain/Asphalt Walking Ratio:
  • Official camino: 20%/80%
  • Alternative route: 35%/65%
• Next stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 11, Padron – Santiago de Compostela.
• Previous stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 9, Arcade – Caldas de Reis.

Elevation profiles for the routes

– Official camino. Again the elevation chart is very easy to read. Basically it is one mild climb from the beginning until km 6, and then very mild descent, spiced up by one short steep section at km 10, all the way to to the end. An easy stage.

– Alternative route is more eventful, and take you much higher than the official camino. However, the extra elevation is definitely worth it in this case.

Advanced info about the stage

• Natural Highlights: In general this is a decent stage, with several green sections (even more on an alternative way), some beautiful tree tunnels, and a stretch next to a river. And while it doesn’t have spectacular views or anything of that sort, it is a pleasant stage to walk through. The only highlight I may point out is:
  • Nature reserve of Raxoi, with its three waterfalls, exactly here. It is a 1.5 km detour from the camino, but in good weather, and when you have your accommodation booked in Padron and are not in rush, it is definitely a detour worth making, as you can see from the pictures…
• Historical & Cultural Highlights: 
  • Church of Saint Marina of Carracedo, location on Google maps here. Right on the Camino, km 6 of today’s walk. Romanesque church dating to the 12th century with simple but beautiful granite architecture so typical of churches in Galicia. Free entrance if the church is open.
  • Traditional Galicean horreos (raised granaries). Horreos are traditional structures locals used to store grains, especially maize, in previous centuries. On the rural mid of this stage you’ll pass by many of them, some very beautiful and worth a picture at least :). Actually there are some albergues, on other Caminos in Galicia, that changed these horreos to dorms (for an interesting sleeping experience indeed), but that’s for some other write-up 🙂
  • The city center of Padron, especially the Iglesia de Santiago Apostol de Padron. Location on Google maps here. This church marks the place where the saint’s remains supposedly arrived before being carried inland to Santiago de Compostela. The legend is well explained inside the church. And even if one doesn’t believe in it, the church has a beautiful architecture and lot of symbolism one can meditate on, perhaps about whether there is something after death or not… Opens every day, with siesta break between 1pm and 5pm. Daily mass at 8pm, with pilgrim blessing.
  • Pimientos de Padron. Local specialty, see “few tips at the end” section for more info.
• Alternative route info: You can leave the official camino roughly at km 8.5, exactly here, turning right instead of continuing straight. Following our map, or GPS, climbing steadily for 3 km, you join a way called Via Mariana. The way is signposted, traversed by people, and you won’t get lost once you’re there. Then you stay on it all the way until Padron. A few km before Padron you will pass by an interesting place, the only donation-based albergue on this camino, the Convent of Hebron, exactly here. You can read more about this place in “Recommended Accommodation” section. The alternative route is 6 km longer than the official camino. And while it isn’t a kind of trail that takes your breath away, it is a nice way combining trail and asphalt, and most importantly, it is a way to escape the crowds and organized pilgrim groups on this crowded stretch close to Santiago de Compostela. Hence I recommend taking it, especially in good weather.
• Camping/Bivouac Options on the Stage: There is no official camping place on this stage. However, if you follow the alternative route Via Mariana, you will  find several decent spots to pitch a tent, with about 9-10 km left to Padron. Just make sure to avoid private property and you’ll be fine here in the woods…
• Dog-Friendly Score: 4/5, should you take the alternative route (over Via Mariana). The official camino isn’t catastrophic either, except of the last 6km to Padron. In any case, on both official camino and the alternative way you have: nice trail sections with shade, several rivulet crossing or walking next to the river, several sections with a terrain your dog will enjoy no doubt. And why is the alternative way better for the dog? Well, much less people, less asphalt, more forests, better terrain for dogs. For the best (and only truly dog friendly) accommodation on this stage, go to Hospital de Peregrinos San Antonio de Herbón, exactly here. Which is ideal is that this albergue is on the alternative way (Via Mariana) that I suggest to take anyway when you walk with the dog.
• Special Remarks: None.

My picks for accommodation on this stage

1. Albergue de Peregrinos Pontecesures, Pontecesures, km 16. A recently renovated municipal albergue, in much better conditions than many other municipal albergues in Galicia. 54 beds in 2 big rooms, unbeatable price of 10 euro/night. A big plus is that almost everyone goes to Padron, so here you can find a bit of peace, escape from the crowds, and also a bed in high season :). The mattresses are in pretty good condition, so are the bathrooms. There are no utensils in the kitchen, but you have some good restaurants in town, including Italian pizzeria, so no issue here. Check-in from 1pm, doesn’t accept reservations.
2. Hospital de Peregrinos San Antonio de Herbón, km 19 (3 km out of camino, with clearly signposted way, or directly on the alternative camino route Via Mariana–check alternative route section above). Location and reviews on Google maps here. A very special place, since it is a donation based albergue, something very typical on Camino Frances and Camino del Norte, but there are virtually none such albergues on the Portuguese coastal way… There was one very nice in Mougas but it doesn’t exist anymore. Anyway, here for a donation (be generous if you can) you get dinner, breakfast, and a bed. There are no shops or restaurants nearby. 30 beds in 15 rooms (each room for 2), check-in from 4pm, pilgrim mass each day at 8pm. Beautiful peaceful place inside and outside. Highly recommended, a different experience on your camino.
3. Albergue Murgadan, Padron, km 19.5. Location and reviews on Google maps here. Luckily there are several really nice albergues in Padron. If I should just one, however, I’d pick Murgadan. Located in the historic center, with new installations and good quality beds, everything super clean and run with love for pilgrims. 32 beds, 20 euro/night, recommended way of making a reservation: Booking.com, exactly here, or WhatsApp on +34 638 298 437. Check-in from 1pm. If you don’t get a bed here, my second choice in town will be albergue D’Camino (Google maps here, Booking reservation here).

Pictures from the stage

– A beautiful statue of an older pilgrim. For the last 100 kilometers of each major pilgrimage route in Spain, Camino means a lot. From the point of history, culture, but also economy and income for the locals.

– A “tree tunnel”, so typical for Galicia. It also helps on a rainy day 🙂

– Promenade in El Padron. Not many people around, maybe I was there in the wrong hour :).

Few tips at the end

• Make sure to try the “Pimientos de Padron“, the small fried green peppers, so typical for this zone. While it is quite rare finding a spicy one on your plate among the sweet ones, it isn’t completely impossible. And it is still a great dish, perfect for sharing with your fellow pilgrim friends.
• If you sleep in Padron, I suggest you not rushing super early the next morning, to be in Santiago on time for the famous pilgrim mass at noon. The last stage has 25 km, it is almost all climbing (although not steep), and one also cannot come to the cathedral in Santiago at 11:55 and just go to the Holy mass. You have to leave your backpack in a luggage deposit, and also get inside among the crowds. All in all, one should be in Santiago at 11am, or 11:30 the latest. With 25 km to cover with big backpack, you’d have to start from Padron at 6am, and take very short breaks only, in order to make it on time to the mass at noon. In my opinion, it’s just not worth it and also the last stage you should enjoy, and not rush out, unless you explicitly have to (for example because you fly out of Santiago in the afternoon)… There is a pilgrim mass at 7:30 pm, and also 7:30 am every morning. Not so famous like the mass at 12, but still one doesn’t go to church for fame, does he?

Next/Previous Stage

• Next stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 11, Padron – Santiago de Compostela.
• Previous stage: Camino Portuguese de la Costa, Stage no. 9, Arcade – Caldas de Reis.