From Puente de la Reina to Estella, Camino Frances stage no. 5

Basic Information

• Starting Point: Puente la Reina, Spain – A charming town known for its iconic medieval bridge, where the Camino Francés and Camino Aragonés routes merge. Six pilgrim albergues and all facilities for pilgrims.
• Ending Point: Estella, Spain – A historic town in Navarre, famous for its Romanesque architecture and medieval churches. With almost 14,000 inhabitants, you will find in town all sorts of shops and offices–simply everything you do not really need on the camino :). Anyway, there are five albergues and several other private accommodation options, and it is one of the nicest towns on the entire camino Frances no doubt.
• Availability of alternative routes: No.
• Distance: 22 km (Download GPS here)
• Online Map: here. 
• Elevation Difference: +450 m ascent, -375 m descent
• Difficulty Score: 3/5
• Beauty Score: 3/5 – Rolling hills, vineyards, and historic landmarks, especially in Estella. Quite a nice stage to be honest.
• Terrain/Asphalt Walking Ratio: 70% trails/30% asphalt, paved roads or right next to the road.
• Next stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 6, Estella – Los Arcos.
• Previous stage: Camino Frances, Stage no. 4, Pamplona – Puente la Reina.

Elevation profile for the route

– Starts easy for the first three kilometers, but then there’s a steep climb of almost 150 meters on a single kilometer. Few more climbs await you until km 13, from where it is mostly downhill or flat.

Advanced Info About the Stage

• Trail Marking: Even today the way marking is great. The only thing that can confuse you sometimes is the cycling route EV3, that follows the camino with some detours all the way from Puente la Reina to Estella. However, both routes always eventually connect, so the cycling route can even be a way for you to escape the crowds for a while, for example when you need to go to the toilet :).
• Natural Places Worth Seeing:
  • Vineyards of Navarre: The trail passes through some of Navarre’s most famous vineyards, offering beautiful views and a taste of the region’s wine culture. There are also some wonderful olive groves along the trail. The landscape has changes from the previous days, and you should definitely enjoy it.
  • The Olivegardzen: A beautiful spot 1 km after the bridge in Cirauqui (km 8.5 of today’s walk). Colorful flowers and sitting places, all nicely arranged in a peaceful olive grove. Ideal for a stop for a snack (one you have with you), or for a quiet reflection. You can also get a stamp for your pilgrim passport. Right on the Camino, you cannot miss it. Location on Google maps here.
• Historical, Architectural, and Culinary Places Worth Seeing:
  • The Roman bridge after Cirauqui, location on Google maps here. Another nice Roman bridge on the way to Santiago.
  • Aqueduct of Alloz, location on Google maps here. You will pass dozens of Roman bridges on your camino, but just a few aqueducts :). This one isn’t  ancient, it has ‘only’ 80 years, but still it is an interesting work of engineering structure. 219 meters long, it is still used to transfer the water from the water dam of Alloz (north of you on the Camino) to the people who need it.
  • Church of St. Miguel Archangel, location on Google maps here. Dating back to the 10th century, it is one of the oldest churches/chapels on your way to Santiago. Located in a nice olive grove, with benches to sit on, people leave messages and prayers in this ancient church. A short 200 meters detour from the Camino (well signposted), and definitely worth taking. It is also a great spot to take a rest from both the crowds and the walk.
  • The many churches of Estella: You will find plenty of beautiful churches in the town of Estella, such as San Pedro, San Juan, San Miguel. The town center isn’t big, and there are signs everywhere leading to all the churches and chapels in town. Definitely a great way to pass your afternoon in Estella :). And which of the churches is my favorite? Well, it’s the Church of San Pedro. If you have time to visit just one church in Estella, this is the one to go to. Location on Google maps here.
• Camping/Bivouac Options on the Stage: There is one organized camping space, two kilometers before Estella, called Camping Lizarra. 600 meters detour from the Camino, location and reviews on Google maps here. Good reviews, restaurant on site, swimming pool in summer, prices change depending on the season, but you should be able to camp there with your own tent for about 15 euro, all costs included. You can check the actual prices on the website of the camping. When it comes to wild camping/bivouac, the landscape is a bit tricky for it (too open). However, you either have a chance next to the Church of St. Miguel Archangel, or you can try climbing up Pico Berra above Estella, and pitching your tent there. Location on Google maps here.
• Dog-Friendly Score: 3/5. The closer we move to the central part of Camino Frances, the more tricky things get for dogs (and perhaps for human beings as well, but let’ see). What I try to say here is that the landscape is more open, with less shade. And though you pass some Roman bridges and cross some rivers, water isn’t of best quality here, and if your dog is prone to stomach issues and not used to drinking any kind of water, it should rather avoid drinking it. Having said that, the terrain is nice for dogs, and you have a good albergue in Estella accepting dogs, called Hosteria de Curtidores. Location and reviews on Google maps here.
• Special Remarks:
  • Estella isn’t as famous as many other towns on Camino Frances, but it has special charm, and plenty of Romanesque churches, each of them worth visiting. I recommend you trying to reach the place early to have the afternoon free for exploring the town.

My picks for accommodation on this stage

1. Albergue Cirauqui Casa Maralotx (km 8): A beautiful albergue with attention to utmost detail. Located on the top of the precious village of Cirauqui. Location and reviews on Google maps here. 20 beds in two rooms plus various private room options. Price from 16 euro/bed, communal dinner for 16 euro extra, breakfast another 6 euro. A bit overpriced but that’s how it is nowadays on the Camino Frances. Anyway, if you can afford it, and love attention to detail, you will remember this place for a long time. Great reviews across all platforms.
2. Albergue de Peregrinos de Estella (km 22): The most affordable place in Estella, and surprisingly decent for a municipal albergue, with an almost symbolic price of 8 euro/night. 72 beds, check-in from noon til 10pm, good location close to the church of St. Pedro. Location and reviews on Google maps here. Kitchen doesn’t really work but except of it you’ll find there everything a pilgrim need for one night stay.
3. Albergue Capuchinos (Estella, km 22): A nice and peaceful place run by the Capuchins, next to a beautiful chapel from 12th century. Location and reviews on Google maps here.  14-18 euro/night (depending on the season), 30 beds in 7 rooms plus private room options. They accept reservations, you can make one on +34 948 550 549, or writing to [email protected] . Well-equipped kitchen and dinning area, nice spaces both outside and inside. Highly recommended. Check-in from noon to 8pm.

Pictures from the stage

– Nothing beats the dawns on the Camino, with the old houses and endless sky… Or perhaps a sunrise does?

– A kind of paths that you’ll follow on today’s stage. Short and steep up and downs are frequent in the first half of the stage.

– A subterranean passage under A12 highway. Far from the longest on all Caminos, but a nice place to hide from scorching sun form a while.

– The chapel of St. Miguel Archangel, dating back to 10th century. 200 meters detour from the Camino, definitely worth taking.

– I love when the nature invades old buildings. And with a horse nearby… one cannot help taking a picture.

– The charming town of Estella

– The unforgettable church of St. Pedro in Estella, in the strong sunlight of Spanish afternoon.

Few Tips at the End

• Start early to avoid the midday heat and to enjoy the early morning light over the vineyards. The views in cold air are breathtaking, and worth waking up early at least once on your camino. Starting early will also leave you enough time to explore the beautiful Estella with its many churches, as I describe above.

Next/Previous Stage

• Next stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 6, Estella – Los Arcos.
• Previous stage: Camino Frances, Stage no. 4, Pamplona – Puente la Reina.