From Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro, Camino Frances, Stage no. 23

Basic Information

• Starting Point: Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain. A charming medieval town at roughly 500 meters above sea level, nestled in the foothills of the Leon Mountains. Considered by many one of the most beautiful small towns on the entire Camino. With roughly 3,000 inhabitants, you will find all services in town, including nine pilgrim albergues (and maybe another one opening soon), and other, more expensive accommodation options.
• Ending Point: O Cebreiro, Spain. A small Galicean hamlet at over 1,300 meters above sea level. Originally a charming place with unforgettable views that has turned into a bit of a tourist trap with the growth of the Camino Frances. But it still has its charm, especially after the long climb :). You will find two pilgrim albergues in town, a small shop, several restaurants and also some more expensive accommodation options. It is also the first village in Galicia, so now you’re in your forth and final autonomous community of the camino.
• Availability of an alternative route: Yes. While the main road follows the National N-6 road with gradual ascent (luckily we do not walk on the road on many ocassions, just close to it–sometimes closer, sometimes further), the alternative route takes us totally off the road into the mountains, for the first 11 kilometers of the hike. It adds 300 vertical meters to the climb, and it is much less traversed, and much nicer. Of course, considering the general difficulty of this stage, it is up to you to consider whether you feel like walking the alternative route and adding the extra desnivel to your hike.
• Distance: Official camino: 28 km (download GPS here). Alternative route: 29 km (download GPS here).
• Online Map: Official camino: map. Alternative route: map.
• Elevation Difference:
  • Official camino: +1,090 m ascent, -285 m descent.
  • Alternative route: + 1360 m ascent, – 555 m descent.
• Difficulty Score:
  • Official camino: 4/5.
  • Alternative route: 5/5.
• Beauty Score: 4/5, for the alternative route close to 5/5.
• Terrain/Asphalt Ratio:
  • Official camino: 35% trails, 65% asphalt, on the road, or very close to the road.
  • Alternative way: 60% trails, 40% asphalt.
• Next stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 24, O Cebreiro – Samos.
• Previous stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 22, Ponferrada- Villafranca del Bierzo.

Elevation profile for the routes

– Official camino: Basically a slow but steady climb on the first 22 kilometers (climbing just about 400 meters in total), and from km 22.5 the sharp ascent to O Cebreiro starts. As you can notice on the chart, there are even some totally flat sections in the first 22 kilometers.

– Alternative route: Starts with a steep climb up to the small mountain ridge, then you stay on it with some ups and down until you go back down again to reconnect with the official camino on km 12. From there on the way is identical with the official camino.

Advanced Info About the Stage

• Trail Marking: Reasonably good on the official camino, little bit faded on the alternative route. Once you’re up the ridge (on the alternative route), the key is to stay on the ridge, avoiding taking any lefts or rights. You can also download our GPS and follow it on the alternative route. The only thing that can make a navigation tricky today is the fog, which is very common in this part of Galicia.
• Alternative route info: The alternative route leaves the main one already in Villafranca, near the convent, exactly here. You turn sharp right over the path and sharply climb to the ridge on the right side of the valley where official camino goes. It is a nice way in an old forest with some great views. At about km 8, you’ll find a mark pointing to a pilgrim hostel called Albergue Lamas, location and reviews on Google maps here, in a village of Pradela (500 meters detour from the Camino). It is an interesting spot to spend the night if you want to avoid the crowds. In the albergue you can get a bed, a communal dinner and a breakfast, so you do not have to reach it stocked on food. From the turn to the albergue, the camino is almost all descent and eventually connects with the official camino in a village called Trabadelo, km 10 of the official route, and km 11 of the alternative one. From there on both ways are identical all the way up to O Cebreiro. If you feel for it (considering the overall elevation we have to cover today), or perhaps plan your stages differently and want to stay in the Albergue Lamas, I definitely recommend taking the alternative route.
• Natural Highlights:
  • The alternative route over Cerro del Real: The alternative route over the mountain ridge with a high point Cerro del Real is considered by many one of the nicest parts of the entire Camino Frances. While you don’t get particularly high here (the highest point is “only” 860 meters above sea level), the trail is really nice, with blossoming bushes all around you, and a few spots with great views. Lack of crowds makes the place even nicer to enjoy.
  • Climb to O Cebreiro, and the views from the top. The final five kilometers offer beautiful scenery with deep valleys, chestnut forests, and green meadows. The views from O Cebreiro is particularly impressive, and definitely one of the reasons why this place is so famous among pilgrims.
• Historical & Cultural Highlights:
  • Santa María de O Cebreiro: 9th-century church (one of the oldest on the whole Camino) where, according to a legend, one day the Eucharist turned to flesh and the glass of wine to a glass of blood, in front of a truly devoted Catholic who made a pilgrimage to the site in a really bad weather. True or false, it is a nice church, with a pilgrim mass at 7pm every day. Location and reviews on Google maps here.
  • Local Cuisine: Try caldo galego (hearty soup, great after a cold foggy day, and you’ll get a chance to have it on many days from now on) and queixo do Cebreiro (creamy cheese from the location). You should be able to get both the cheese and the soup in restaurants in O Cebreiro.
• Camping/Bivouac Options: There is one official camping place on today’s stage, called Camping Valle do Seo, shortly after Trabadelo, and 1.5 km detour from the camino. Location and reviews on Google maps here. It is a very nice location next to the river with plenty of trees, and both pitches with shade and sun. Never too busy, with nice owners, restaurant, and even a small hostel zone, so in theory you can stay there even without a tent (verify this option calling in advance). Prices vary according to the season, but you should be able to camp there for roughly 15 euro (one person in one tent, with electricity). Wild camping is strongly prohibited in the zone of O’Cebreiro, that’s something to take into account. But you’ll walk along a few churches with covered porches/door zone, where you can bivouac being protected from wind and rain. For example this one, or this one.
• Dog-Friendly Score: 3/5, alternative route 4/5. Be sure to take the alternative route with your companion, to avoid excessive road walking. There is enough water nearby, and also enough shade. Accommodation at O’Cebreiro aren’t dog friendly, but there is a great dog-friendly albergue 2.5 km before O’Cebreiro, called La Escuela, in a settlement called Laguna de Castilla. Location and reviews on Google maps here.
• Special Remarks: 
  • You should not get too obsessed about staying at the public albergue in O Cebreiro, rushing early in the morning to arrive early to get one of the 100 beds (which is not enough in the high season). In all honesty, O Cebreiro is a tourist trap, and it is enough passing it on the next day of your walk, stopping for coffee and enjoying the views for half an hour. The albergues in La Faba (4km before O Cebreiro) or Laguna de Castilla (2.5 km before O Cebreiro) are much better, and from both locations you have nice views and everything, just as you will from O Cebreiro. Of course, if you want to stay in the public albergue of O Cebreiro, you can do that, but in the main season it typically means arriving there at 1pm latest (there is always queue of people waiting for beds before the opening hour).
  • O Cebreiro is the first settlement in Galicia, so finally you enter the forth and last autonomous community of your Camino Frances, and the one where all Way’s of Saint James end. For me, Galicia means a lot of green scenery, rural settlements, and a smell of cows almost always present :). You’ll see whether you like it or not.

My picks for accommodation on this stage

1. Albergue Lamas, Pradela (km 10, on an alternative way): A very nice albergue on the alternative route, away from the crowds. A peaceful place with communal dinner and breakfast, homemade. 13 euro/night, dinner and breakfast have extra cost. Only 10 beds but you typically won’t have a problem to get a bed, since most people take the official camino, or continue further on. They accept reservations, you can call to +34 677 569 764 or +34 600 042 794 to make your reservation. Location and reviews on Google maps here.
2. Albergue de la Faba, La Faba (km 24): Run by German association of friends of Camino de Santiago, the place is very well maintained, clean and perfectly organized. Count with a well-equipped kitchen where you can cook all basic dishes. Beautiful location and views, an a way to avoid the tourist traps of O Cebreiro. 8 euro/night, 52 beds, no reservations, check-in from 2pm. Location and reviews on Google maps here.
3. Albergue La Escuela, Laguna de Castilla (km 26). A beautiful albergue in a location with nice views. Perfectly clean, great attention of the owners. While there isn’t a kitchen, there is a bar/restaurant on-site, where you can get a meal at any time of a day. 29 beds in dorms plus some private rooms, check-in from 2pm, you can make a reservation on one of the following phone numbers: +34 987 684 786, +34 619 479 238. Location and reviews on Google maps here. Price 14 euro/night.
4. Albergue de Peregrinos O Cebreiro, km 28. The municipal albergue in O Cebreiro. 100 beds, first comes-first gets. During the high season you have to be there before 1pm to get a bed. 10 euro/night, basic kitchen, the beds are a bit old and the installations too, but in O Cebreiro this is probably the best place to stay (for sure the least expensive one). Location and reviews on Google maps here.

Pictures from the stage

– A foggy morning on the first kilometers from Villafranca. As I said, fog is very common in this zone of Galicia.

– Looking back on Villafranca, walking this stage for the second time, in 2021. I was more lucky with weather this time around.

– It is hard not loving the nature on this stage… The last 7 km are definitely the best.

– Looking down from O Cebreiro, on beautiful Galicean nature.

– Sunset from the terrace of the municipal albergue in O Cebreiro.

Few tips at the end

• Start early and count with 8-9 hours of walking. Obviously your pace depends a lot on your shape and on how many breaks you take, but in average, it takes people around 8-9 hours to reach O Cebreiro from Villfranca, following the official camino, and 10 hours following the alternative route. It is something to consider when planning your day, especially if you want to have any chance of getting a bed in the public albergue in O Cebreiro (works on “first come first serve” basis, no reservations accepted).

Next/Previous stage

• Next stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 24, O Cebreiro – Samos.
• Previous stage: Camino Frances Stage no. 22, Ponferrada- Villafranca del Bierzo.