Sarria, the most common starting point on Camino de Santiago. Situated exactly 100 kilometers from the shrine of St. James in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, which is the minimum distance you need to walk to officially complete the pilgrimage, and get your certificate upon arrival, it attracts hordes of pilgrims each year.
Ranging from people who do not have time to attempt longer pilgrimages, and those who simply want to get their feet wet on an easy one before trying longer Caminos, to organized bus tours and big groups of Spanish students who want to earn credits while walking a bit and drinking a lot, Sarria really is a Camino hot spot. If you also want to join the crowds, you may wonder where in Sarria you can get your pilgrim passport (credential), a document that will allow you to stay in pilgrim hostels for cheap, and one in which you’ll collect the stamps along the way. Let’s have a look at it right now.
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Iglesias (churches) are your best bet to get the credential for free, or for a symbolic donation (2 euro)
Let’s start with the spots where pilgrims got their credential in the past, and where you can still get it without paying any outrageous sum for it. You will find two churches in Sarria, plus a couple of chapels and one convent. All these places are used to seeing pilgrims, and all of them have some pilgrim passports ready, but your best bet is to visit one of the following two places (you can just click the place on my list to get to the location on Google Maps):
In both places, your best chances to get the credential are in the evening, between 6pm and 8pm. Of course, these are churches so some catholic clergy is always around, and you may try your chances knocking on the door at any time of the day :). If they do not specifically ask for money, offer some donation at least (as long as you can afford it of course).
– Facade of a church of Santa Maria (or Marina in gelego) on a slightly overcast day. You can easily find the church, and just go inside and follow the directions to get your pilgrim credential…
You can get pilgrim passport also in the albergues (pilgrim hostels) in Sarria, but get ready to pay more
Camino de Santiago is an amazing spiritual experience for those who open themselves to such experience. However, it is also a huge business, and many people running shops, restaurants, and hostels/hotels along the way, especially on the stretch of last 100 kilometers, try to make the most out of the opportunity. We cannot blame them for such attitude, they are on the right place in a right time. Plus we live in uncertain times, so you never know how many pilgrims will come the next year (take 2020 as an example), and how much money you will make as a business on the Camino. Anyway, back to the credential.
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You may get a pilgrim passport in all official pilgrim hostels in Sarria, which is at the moment more than 15 places, and you likely have one booked already, unless you want to sleep on the street :). Anyway, just walking through the city you will pass many pilgrim hostels, so you can just stop in any of them and ask for a credential. The only drawback is that they will charge you more in albergues than they do in churches. I’ve heard stories of pilgrims paying 15 euro for a simple credential in Sarria. It may not seem like a lot, but remember that in nature credential is just a piece of paper, and the production cost are likely 50 cents or less per piece (in mass production).
Hence if you are on a budget, or prefer to support Catholic church instead of some private individuals, I suggest you to get your pilgrim passport in one of the churches of Sarria. Of course, exception always proves the rule, and in some of the pilgrim hostels you may meet some amazing hospitalero who will insist that you take the credential for free. But this is really more an exception than the rule :). Now I will list seven pilgrim hostels in Sarria, just to make it easier for you to find one. Entering any of the names to Google Maps will give you easy directions to the place. I include the phone number so you can ask them in advance whether they have pilgrim credentials for sale:
- Albergue de peregrinos de Sarria, +34 660 396 813
- Albergue Monasterio de la Magdalena, +34 982 533 568
- Albergue Internacional, +34 982 535 109
- Albergue Los Blasones, +34 600 512 565
- Albergue Mayor, +34 680 110 003
- Albergue Oasis, +34 982 535 516
- Albergue-Pensión Puente Ribeira, +34 982 876 789
– A typical sight for the Camino near Sarria, peaceful green forests and wide gravel road for walking, to accommodate the quantities of pilgrims on this stretch of the Camino. I took this picture back in 2014
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Last resort option: Getting a pilgrim passport from a fellow pilgrim in Sarria
If all options fail, for example if you find yourself in Sarria at 10am, and all albergues are closed, and there’s nobody in the churches, and you do not feel like waiting until 1pm when the places will open, or simply want to continue walking, you can always stop fellow pilgrims and ask them whether they do not have a spare credential.
It may seem unlikely to you, but keep in mind that many people walked 800 kilometers or more, and some of them took several credentials with them from home (ordering them online before), just to make sure they won’t run out of space for stamps somewhere far away from Santiago, where it may be tricky to get a new pilgrim passport.
Now, however, they are already near their destination, and pretty much know whether or not they will need the spare credential(s). And since they are pilgrims and they walked a long way, they are in a generous mood and ready to help a fellow pilgrim like you :). At the end of the day that’s the spirit of a Camino, and no doubt someone else helped them when they needed it the most. Asking whether they cannot sell or give you a credential won’t hurt. In the worst case scenario, you have a nice way of striking a conversation with a stranger :).
Final thoughts
Sarria is the most popular starting point on all Caminos. Tens of thousands of pilgrims start their pilgrimage from here every year. And since supply always follows the demand, you will find everything a pilgrim may need in the town. When it comes to getting your pilgrim passport, you can obtain it in one of the churches or pilgrim hostels in Sarria.
If for any reason these two options fail, you can try your luck with fellow pilgrims or tour guides leading organized groups, who may have a spare credential to donate or sell. I hope this articles helped you, and wish you a great camino!
Matej
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